Unwinding in Angola

War-torn Angola has been off-limits to all but the most fearless travelers for a long time. With peace in 2002, rumors started circulating that Angola might be the next hot travel destination. Unfortunately, that day has not arrived yet. While most Foreign Office websites don’t exactly advise against travelling to Angola, neither to they encourage a visit by calling out more of the negative aspects that might await you when you land up here. And this coupled with the fact that the capital of the oil-rich country has been frequently voted as the most expensive city in the world for expatriates to live in, would daunt even the savviest travelers. But a lot had changed(economically) when we visited in 2018, making it much more manageable and enjoyable. 

First Impressions

Sitting above a half moon-shaped bay fringed with palm trees, Luanda certainly had a charm & vibe to it that was very different from the one you get in an African city. On first impression, It Felt like a piece of Brazil in Africa – both in terms of Vibe and setting. Be it the beach volleyball courts that decorated the oceanfront sands or the outgoing party spirit, we felt more like being in a Latin American Beach city than in an African capital. They even have their own ‘Christ the Redeemer’ Statue perched on top of a hill just like in any other South American Capital city! #LatinAmericaInAfrica

Check-in

Since on the first night we wanted to stay close to all the action & nightlife, we checked into Thomson House hotel - Artsy Charmer on the waterfront of Ilha de Cabo. The Art house (as they called it) oozed an artistic and Bohemian charm all through the property – from the façade of the building to the interiors. Every bit of decoration – like the masks hanging on the wall – had been tastefully selected giving it a Charming African feel to it. And the location was just excellent - right in the middle of the Ilha de Luanda within stone’s throw away from all the cool bars, restaurants and nightlife and located right on the waterfront!

Indulging the Hungry Traveler

The Portuguese colony of Angola was founded in 1575 and lasted almost continuously until Angolan independence in 1975. This makes the country quite different from its neighbors, which were mostly colonized by the Germans, Dutch and British.  The colonizers have left an indelible mark both in terms of Heritage & Culture as well as Food & Drinks. Angola’s culinary tradition is heavily influenced by the 500 years of Portuguese colonization and seafood from more than a thousand kilometers of coastline.  Since we didn’t want to venture too far under the scorching African sun, we settled for the sweet restaurant (Seven Grill) right next to the hotel that had a nice Rooftop seating. 

Sipping on a cold beer and savoring delicious local food, while getting treated to the African People-watching on the street below, with a backdrop of the ocean front – you cannot ask for a more delightful setting than this!

Sundowner time

Lucky for us, we didn’t have to go too far to catch another glorious African sunset with a cold one. The Botanica rooftop bar at the Thomson hotel came with Sweeping views of the Atlantic on one side and the bay studded with a backdrop of pretty downtown buildings on the other side.

Saudade no more!

While most former Portuguese colonies in Africa are still attached to the songs reflecting Saudade (a feeling of longing, melancholy, or nostalgia that is supposedly characteristic of the Portuguese temperament) made popular by the legendary Cesara Evoria from Cabo Verde, Angola seemed to be on a new age trip that was more easy-breezy. They are more into the likes of Bebel Gilberto, clearly showing their affinity to a Brazilian spirit & temperament rather than to a Portuguese Chillout mood. We witnessed this the most during our Bar crawl in Ilha de Cabo – a long stretch of sandy beaches lined with some of the fanciest restaurants and nightclubs in Africa!

The Ilha de Cabo is the tropical beach playground for the wealthy and increasing number of Expats who work here in Angola. The place is populated with some of the hippest beach clubs & bars that can give the ones in Miami or Rio a run for their money - both in terms of the atmosphere as well as the beautiful people, who emerge after their pre-party nap as the music cranks up from midnight until the sun comes up again! No better place for a Beachside Bar Crawl! 

We started with Café Del Mar and went through Miami Beach Club, Lookal, Caribe and finally settled down in Chillout Lounge. While every bar and club had their own mood & hip ambience, Chillout spoke to our hearts the most.  Caressing African Breeze, the Rhythmic Waves of the Atlantic Ocean lashing against the shore, the Swaying Coconut trees that seemed to be grooving to the Seductive songs of Bebel Gilberto playing in the background, Cold Crispy Cuca beers that were taking us to a sweet spot in a teasingly slow pace - Words simply fail to describe Some magical moments you get treated to in travel!! Ola ANGOLA!

Logging steps like a Local

Since our hotel was located on the best part of the Ilha de Cabo, we decided to kickstart the day with a brisk morning walk along the lovely promenade embracing the majestic Atlantic ocean. While the place seemed quite safe and filled with affluent locals who were out on their morning jog, run or walk – we couldn’t escape from the more impacting sights and lifestyle of the homeless people who were living in makeshift dwellings on the beach of the living. 

Nothing different from what I have seen in other developing countries – including India – but the fact that everything else was picture perfect and seemed to be made to fit into a developed country in the western world except this, made it stand out like a sore thumb. Unlike other cities, Luanda’s wealthy waterfront is surrounded by grinding poverty even visible from the flight as you land in the city! But still, everyone seemed to be leading a ‘Hakuna Matata’ way of life that was so characteristic of Africa, and didn’t appear to be very bothered by the disparity – at least from what we could see.

Chilling out like an Expat

I’ve visited almost every country in Africa and can assertively say that there are very few places in the continent that can compete with the vibe, glam and character of Luanda. This is not just another African Capital, but a city that was way too cooler than any of its other counterparts, and in a league of its own!  Even flashy places like Cape town or Dakar have to really fight hard to match what Luanda has to offer. Take for example Bar Convés  – a classy bar & restaurant inside Luanda’s fancy Yacht club and a popular haunt of the local Expats -where we made a quick pitstop before heading into the city. The lovely patio deck at the back of the restaurant comes loaded with one of the most stunning views in the country. A glimmering Bay filled with Swanky Yachts and weekend kayakers, set against a backdrop of a Glitzy Skyline that dots the seaside promenade! 

Some Sightseeing

It is almost impossible to visit an African Capital without witnessing the etchings of Colonialism in the form of Heritage buildings and monuments that are formidable displays of power and authority. Luanda is no exception, as the city  houses its own share of Colonial Jewels. While you can get a glimpse of a lot of them while driving along the main drag of the city, we decided to drop by a couple of sites that stood out from the pack. 

The first stop was the Fortaleza de Sao Miguel. Built by the Portuguese in the sixteenth century, Fortaleza de Sao Miguel is a fortress is Luanda’s oldest surviving building, and was an actual town in itself at one point. The views from the top of the fortress allow the visitors see much of the capital city of Angola as well as the Mussel peninsula.

The next stop was at the Cathedral of the Holy Saviour(Sé Catedral de Luanda) - a Roman Catholic Church that was built in 1628 and is the seat of the Roman Catholic Archbishop of Luanda. A hidden jewel of Africa, that can easily give any of the majestic cathedral of central and Latin America a run for their money in terms of crumbling colonial charm!

The final stop was at the Palácio de Ferro -  A charming historical building is believed to having been designed and constructed in 1890 by the famous architect Gustave Eiffel, the creator of the Eiffel Tower. Its self-explanatory name not only involves a forged iron structure but a majestic/secretive world behind it. There are no registration of its origin for certain, and the rumors revolve around ships having been lost at sea and ending up in Angolan territory. This is certainly an attraction that is not to be missed in Luanda! 

Lunar Landing

Located just outside Luanda, Miraduoro da Lua or Moon Viewpoint is one of the most uniquely impressive sightseeing places in Angola. Also called the “Valley of the Moon”, this otherworldly site boasts of breathtaking landscape which consists of rock formations created over thousands of years by rain and wind erosion. The Watchpoint offers a view of a tricolor sharp carved soil, almost similar to the moon’s surface, hence, giving visitors the sense of being on the moon. And the spectacular view of the stunning Atlantic Ocean acts like an icing on the cake – Literally! 

Romancing the River

Around Lunch time, we checked into the lovely Kwanza River Lodge. Located at the mouth of the Kwanza River – and adjacent to the sea – the eco lodge is housed in one of the most picturesque settings in the country. The backdrop of the dense jungle across the river and fishing boats floating on the river peacefully, add a magical touch to the already romantic waterfront setting. The highlight of the lodge – that delivers a truly Authentic African lodging experience at a fraction of the typical price – is the sexy Patio Bar that is located on the banks of the river. The Perfect place for a sexy sundowner and unwinding after a long day on the road.

Sundowner 

On the Final day, we drove back to Luanda - to do some more sightseeing and checkout more of the local nightlife – and stayed at Hotel Presidente. Once again, we were lucky enough to get easy access to one of the finest rooftop bars in town at our own hotel! While the place got crowded with a load of Vietnamese expats who were clearly not interested in enjoying the sunset, it was still a magical experience. The stretch of pretty waterfront buildings along a curvy drag next to the bay made it look like the Bund in Shanghai or the ‘Queens Necklace’ in Mumbai or even the Copacabana in Rio!

Departure

If the Arrival experience could be considered as smooth and seamless, the Departure experience was delightful! Everyone at the airport – from the Check-in agent to Immigration Officers were so sweet and seemed to have a sunny disposition. In fact, the Lounge staff inside the terminal were almost pampering us, making us feel even more sad that we were leaving this African paradise!

Parting Shot

Like many other countries that suffer from unfavorable articles that paint a gloomy picture of their state, Angola also hurts from several negative tags that discourage potential travelers from visiting her. This is one of the reasons I hate the so-called ‘travel journalists’ who don’t seem to find a better topic to write for the Telegraph’s and Guardian’s of the world, than come up with their own highly judgmental and damaging ‘Blue Lists’ (like ’17 most dangerous countries to visit’!). However, the picture on the ground is very different!

I have only one other country left to visit in Africa and can convincingly say that Angola is by far one of my Favorite countries in this captivating continent, if not in the entire world! Pleasing People, Warm hospitality, Bewitching Beaches, Romantic Rivers, Seductive Jungles, Colonial Charm, Chic Cityscapes, Hip Clubs, Gourmet Bistros, and of course great food. It might not have the ‘Big 5’ trump card of the other popular Safari Slinging Superpowers, but if you put that aside it is a Microcosm of Rest of Africa all packed into one bubble and fast-forwarded 50 years ahead! 

Overall, our experience in Angola felt like Mama Africa telling us 'I know how much you love me, and this is my way of showing how much Africa loves you back!!'  Obrigado Angola!