Romancing the Fort

For a lot of folks who indulge in the beautiful experience of exploring exotic places and locales, travel typically means going to a destination because of the destination itself, and everything else follows that. But sometimes your craving to go to a destination can commence from your first discovery of a specific accommodation that entices you to plan a trip to make a stay at that place happen! This blog is a series of posts that showcase such properties, where I didn’t even know which city/region the property was located in or how easy it was to get there - but knew I wanted to spend a day and a night there! This edition showcases a Paradise of a Palace Fort called Chanoud Garh

The Destination

The fort-palace is located in the quaint little village of Chanoud in the district of Pali, a hidden tourist gem of the royal state of Rajasthan. Tucked away off the main road between Udaipur and Jodhpur, the village of Chanoud is far away from the hustle of the bigger and more popular destinations. However, the region in and around this district is equally packed with so many heritage jewels, you can spend more than a few days exploring all the Rajputana treasures as side trips basing yourself here.  Popular sights like the famous Jain temples of Ranakpur or the legendary Bullet Baba temple are just around an hour’s drive away, and you can also indulge in some Wildlife Safari drives in the nearby village of Bera if you choose to.

Even in a land of magical palaces and fairy-tale forts, a Rural Rajasthan detour stands out in terms of a royal experience.  So, while most travellers visiting Rajasthan opt for the big hitters and more popular palace or fort hotels, when they choose to luxuriate in Royal Rajasthan stays, we went for a hidden heritage gem that was well off the beaten track. 

The Property

Located in the heart of Rural Rajasthan, this luxuriant 300-year-old fort-palace that has been painfully restored is steeped in history, loaded with tasteful artwork, and comes with a heavy dose of the famed Rajputana Hospitality. Spread over an area of over 200,000 square feet, the architecture of the palace exhibits a mix of three different schools of architecture- Mewar, Marwar, and the British Raj.

Studded with Stone Filigree Archways, Colourful Walls & Doors, Intricately Carved Jharokhas (overhanging enclosed balconies), Period style Furniture, Marble-filled Corridors, Stained-glass Windows, and a Fountain-filled Courtyard - this place could disorient even the most knowledgeable travellers. The place feels like a historic hacienda of Central America from some angles, and like one of those Chapel Accommodations of Mexico or South America from other angles. And to confuse you further, it also radiates the vibe of the Traditional Riadh’s of North Africa in some areas! What makes the place more culturally interesting is that some of the suites here were inspired by the architecture of the Victorian era, as they were built during colonial rule, for weary British travellers seeking a comfortable stay during their hunting expeditions. So you also get a vibe of the British Raj during your stay here!

When I say this boutique beauty has been ‘painfully’ restored – I really mean it in every sense of the word! The younger scions of the Royal family who transformed this aging jewel, which was gradually eroding and starting to lose its shine, into a Heritage hotel spent almost a decade in the process of renovation. And they have certainly done a wonderful job of tastefully renovating it with great detail, an eye for colour, and priority for quality, yet retaining some of the essential heritage aspects. The fort complex is a treasure trove of historical artefacts, exquisitely designed quarters, frescoed walls, charming courtyards, and serene spaces. You could easily spend a whole day just exploring the various spaces and capturing those instaworthy pictures out of 

As night falls, the Place transforms into a bewitching beauty donning an even more attractive attire. Every nook and corner of the complex gets prettily lit up with lamps, candles, and trendy lights, allowing the ornate fort to almost come alive. As you go on a walk around the property after the sun goes down, you cannot help but get enchanted by this seductress of a royal mansion,  as it starts to throb with hauntingly historic vibes from a Bygone era.

The Room

With less than a dozen suites, each guest chamber in the property is designed to feel personal and unique. Our suite was furnished with charming antique furniture, studded with original stone archways, and decorated with genuine vintage family heirlooms.  The owners really didn’t hold back when it came to royal décor and indulgent opulence. Every nook and cranny of the room was oozing an essence of heritage – even a small shelf in the corner of the bathroom! 

Ironically, Space is a huge luxury - and almost a rare element - in luxury hotels that are built out of heritage monuments. But that is clearly not the case with Chanoud Garh! The suite had multiple rooms, including a cloak room and a cute little study area that was decorated with a vintage desk and old-world picture frames. Worked out as a perfect home office during my stay. And of course, the large in-suite marble bathroom with walk-in showers was a treat. I just couldn’t get myself to step out, especially when I had the option of soaking myself endlessly in magical cosmetics from Kama.  

Also, according to the family, some of the rooms were interestingly inspired by the architecture of the Victorian era, as they were built during the colonial rule, for weary British travellers seeking a comfortable stay during their hunting expeditions. 

Activities & Side Trips

Activities in Chanoud Garh are carefully curated and personally executed by the Family themselves. One of the activities preferred by most visitors here is the Jeep Safari through the Rural landscapes and villages. The next popular local experience is the Village walk - escorted by one of the royal family members - that allows you to engage with the locals. This is a highly recommended experience as you would be treated to some very interesting cross-socio-cultural interactions that you might have never seen or witnessed in person elsewhere, unless you grew up as a Royalty in rural India. Both these are non-commercial, authentic, and carefully driven to provide a fulfilling and unspoilt experience to both the locals and visitors

Also, if you are a Wildlife fan, you can treat yourself to a fun Safari drive around Bera, a small village which is about an hour’s drive from the Garh. The property can help in getting this arranged. If you are lucky, you might be able to spot the elusive Leopards – the crowning glory of the wildlife in this area that includes hundreds of migratory birds, families of deer, and crocodiles, amongst others.

Since we were on a short stay, we went on the Jeep Safari, personally escorted and driven by Mahiraj(one of the family members running the palace hotel). The invigorating drive started off with heading into the countryside, winding through unpaved roads. Slowly, we left behind the villages and headed into the open fields(all of which were once owned by the royal family), which is also the habitat for several migratory birds (an ideal spot for budding ornithologists). The drive also offered a glimpse into the Rabari settlements & lifestyle of the nomadic members of this local sheep-herding community. Getting to spot nomad shepherds and women working the fields en route was as enriching as spotting the fascinating bird life flying over the lush green fields, contrastingly set against the stunning backdrop of the Aravalli mountains

One mild downside of the place is that there are no recreational or wellness amenities, like a swimming pool or Gym. But I assume that’s not the reason why you would have chosen a Palace Sanctuary like this. This is the perfect place to relax, unwind, and enjoy the chilled-out life like Royalty. So good they don’t have any distractions like a Television with a million channels or recreational amenities!

Sundowners – Rajasthani Style

What started off as a simple Jeep Safari through Rural Rajasthan eventually turned out to be an educational tour of typical Rabari Village Life, as well as getting to spot various species of Migratory birds that flock to the area, some almost all the way from Mongolia. While all these were elevating experiences, the best part of the drive was how it climaxed. The Jeep pulled into a totally secluded spot with breathtaking views of the saltwater pan shimmering under the desert sun. A perfect spot to settle down for a Sundowner and savour a Sula Sauvignon Blanc while watching the great ball of fire go down one more time!

Drinks under Starry Skies

The evening’s revelry started off with a lovely Bonfire in the huge backyard of the palace. The staff was indulging us with multiple rounds of savoury starters (all local recipes) that served as perfect accompaniments for the fine wines we had brought with us (as the Palace doesn’t have a bar) to enjoy.

On a chilly winter night in the Desert, listening to the Haunting folk songs of the local tribes rendered live by the village musicians, while enjoying the warmth of the crackling Bonfire under a star-studded sky, made this an unforgettable experience.

Romantic Dinner

As we were still trying to recover from the spell of the magic created by the Bonfire session, we were escorted to the special Dinner the Palace staff had arranged for us in another cool quarter of the Palace called Mor Chowk. This quarter is built like a house in the village with mud walls and local artisanal drawings on the walls, and tastefully lit up. We walked through an array of Lamps that lined the walkway to the Dining area, and finally, a Fabulous Table set up just for the two of us to enjoy a Cosy Romantic Dinner. And to top that, we were treated to some delicious, traditional home-cooked Rajasthani cuisine, including many of the Rathore family’s favourites using recipes that have been passed down through the generations. What more can two tired wandering travellers ask for at the end of a long day on the road! “Padharo Mhare Desh”

Lunch like the Royals

Another meal at this Living and breathing heritage gem meant dining in yet another visually arresting decorated space. Lunch was served in one of the stunningly decorated quarters on the top floor called Moti Mahal. Arguably, this was the most stunning hall in the Garh, still retaining its original paintwork that was done by hand, using vegetable dye. Even if the burst of colours and stunningly gorgeous artwork doesn’t manage to get one high on Rajputana Royalty, the food that the pampering staff serves for lunch would! 

The Royal Mama’s Kitchen had whipped out a Wicked Meal for us, served in the form of a Thali (An Indian-style meal made up of a selection of various dishes which are served on a platter), and in the Land of Maharajahs, an already grand Thali became even more grander, indulging us to feast like the Kings! I have had so many versions of Thali’s - from different kingdoms, regions, and states of India - that I even have an album for it. But this one certainly goes way to the top of that ranking/list! The Thali included dishes we hadn’t tasted anywhere else in Rajasthan – specially cooked using recipes passed down through generations and ingredients sourced locally.

Frills and Fancies

When it comes to Luxury and indulgence, there is a huge difference between Hospitality and Hosting. At Chanoud Garh, you get treated to the latter, which is almost impossible to find these days, especially in a Luxury Heritage Stay. Right from the minute you step into this palace, you would be personally hosted by 13th-generation descendants of the Royal Rathore family, and treated like family and not as a guest of a Palace hotel! And on the food front, you'll be treated to some delicious, traditional home-cooked Rajasthani cuisine, including many of the Rathore family’s favourites using recipes that have been passed down through the generations. All in all, this is a ‘Homestay’ unlike any other in the world!

It's not often you get entertained personally by a member of a royal family.  Not only were we personally attended to and taken care of through our stay by the family, but we were also treated to some very interesting stories from the past during the ‘Palace exploration’ session in the morning. Jai Raj – one of the brothers – walked us through the history and evolution of the palace, as well as regaled us with various stories from the rich Rajput history. It was an enriching experience, and as we were listening to what was being narrated in one of the historic chambers, it almost transported us to the days of the glorious past.

And on the food front, dining at Chanoud Garh is not just consuming another Rajasthani meal but a unique Culinary experience. Inspired by Rajasthani, Marwari, and central Indian cuisine, each meal is carefully prepared in the traditional kitchens of the palace, using ingredients sourced from local farms. And when it comes to Frills and Fancy, nothing can be fancier than the fact that the recipes are personally drawn by the Thakurani(Lady head of the Royal Family) of Chanoud, who also presides over the kitchen in person most of the time. Now that’s what I call Royal Gourmet!

Quick Getaway for

Chanoud Garh is just a little off the beaten track and a perfect halfway stop between Jodhpur (about 3 hours away) and Udaipur (about 2.5 hours away). Quick tip: if you are driving down from Jodhpur, do check out yet another Fort-Palace turned boutique heritage hotel called Rohet Garh. It’s a great pitstop for a lazy lunch while getting to experience the Royal style of relaxation in a classic Rajputana-style courtyard framed by adjoining pillared verandas.

And just like Chanoud Garh, even the meals here are prepared using recipes from the local royal family’s kitchen.