Tranquility in Tea Country

Experiencing a plantation life in its most authentic form had been a long-time travel dream of mine.  The routine of waking up in a tea estate packed with post-card perfect landscapes, having unhurried conversations in bungalows that once belonged to the ‘Dorais’(an erstwhile term for the managers of South Indian tea plantations),  savoring specially prepared homely meals followed by lazy afternoon tea on sunny verandas, and slipping into a deep slumber in elegant bedrooms -  No modern trappings, and just enjoying the authentic charms of a bygone age. 

And the heavenly abode of SinnaDorai Bungalow in Valparai had been on my bucket list for more than a decade now. Finally managed to make it here during the most magical time of the year - Monsoon! Steeped in vintage decor, this centennial bungalow sits on the highest elevation of a sprawling tea estate. The cool climate and the constantly shifting blankets of mist that kept engulfing the estate made the place look and feel otherworldly - validating the label of ‘Seventh heaven’ this venue has been tagged with!  The stay felt like tea country therapy with a strong dose of nature - exactly the kind the wanderlust doctor might have ordered for tired travelers who have been on the road for way too long and looking to recharge. And the fact that we were the only ones in the entire Bungalow made the stay even more unforgettable!

The Destination

Nestled in the Anaimalai Range of the Western Ghats in Tamil Nadu, Valparai is a pristine tea plantation town, a hill station, a biodiversity hotspot, and a tropical rainforest – all rolled into one. What makes Valparai distinctive is that it offers all the delights of a hill station minus the busloads of tourists and daytrippers who would slip seamlessly into most of your clicks! 

The mists are part of the landscape as the rains tumble down the heart of a rainforest, carpeting the Western Ghats. At first glance, it might look like just another plantation town.  But it is a biodiversity hotspot and a rainforest with rare and endemic flora and fauna. There are no wildlife safaris here, but if you are just driving around or relaxing in a homestay or plantation bungalow, you will find fascinating animals and birds right at your doorstep!

Getting to this destination by itself is an unforgettable experience, and provides you with as much visual treat as you might get to enjoy once you reach the top. As your vehicle climbs up the ghat road from Aliyar to Valparai, negotiating a series of 40 sharp & meandering hairpin bends, you could catch glimpses of the scenic waters of the Aliyar reservoir and the greenery-draped mountains framing it. Be prepared to make multiple stops for snapshots!

The Property

Built in the early 1900s, the Plantation Bungalow from the British colonial era is plonked in the middle of 1,770 acres of spectacular tea plantation in Valparai.  The property was formerly run by GA Carver Marsh, one of the Englishmen who first cultivated tea on these ranges. The bungalow gets its name from its history of being the accommodation of the erstwhile ‘Sinna Dorai’ (junior estate manager) of the British tea plantations. Untouched by the ravages of time, the bungalow retains its colonial legacy beautifully. Furnished with period furniture from the 1920s, this isolated six-bedroom bungalow overlooks the picturesque Roti Kadai Valley (the location of the first bakery in the district), and commands a breathtaking view of the Valparai landscape and the rainforests of Vellamalai and Akkamalai in the Anamalai hills.

A colonial elegance permeates this imposing heritage bungalow. The high ceilings, an airy porch, antique furniture, a characterful vintage library, and British remnants in aesthetics will almost make you time-travel into a plantation manager’s life during the Raj era. The expansive balconies, working fireplaces, the old tea factory wage register, an antique gramophone record player, an old typewriter, and other bric-a-brac all add to the harmony. 

Also, the Anamalais are home to abundant wildlife - including panthers, leopards, gaur (Indian bison), lion-tailed macaques, wild boar, Malabar squirrels, hornbills, and sloth bears. So you could be easily treated to an unexpected sighting of wildlife within or just near the compound. In fact,  the staff from the Bungalow are full of stories about unexpected visits from the elephants and frequent sightings of leopards & bears!

While we weren't lucky to spot any big players, we were blessed with a fulfilling share of wildlife encounters. The Malabar Whistling Thrushes (‘whistling schoolboy’) that were punctually entertaining us every morning and evening with their shrill melancholic whistle melodies,  the Orange Headed Thrushes that were frequently engaged in romantic squabbles, the Spotted Doves that were constantly waddling across our paths and cooing to each other through the day, and the colorful peacocks that seemed to be singing and dancing on the rain-drenched rooftops. These adorable darlings gave us company as we were enjoying the bliss of the Monsoon in what seemed like a wildlife playground!

The Room

The main bungalow has two heritage rooms, and the other 4 rooms in two cottages that are also old buildings that have been tastefully restored. We stayed in the Sullivan’s Cottage, which offers unobstructed views of the vast green valleys during the day, spectacular sunsets in the evenings, and starlit skies at night. You can't stroll far without

without stumbling upon impossibly breathtaking views of the estates and the surrounding hills.

The room radiates a vintage aura inside, but without compromising on creature comforts or style.  The easy chairs laid out on the lovely verandah attached to the room are almost irresistible, and we curled up in them as soon as we were dropped in our cottage, with our favorite reads. Given that we visited in the middle of the monsoon season, we were soon greeted by plump drops of afternoon rain that made the chillout session almost enchanting and meditational. We devoted the rest of the day to unplugging from the trappings of city life: no Wi-Fi, no TV, and no distractions!

Spending the night in the cottage, under a heavy monsoon play filled with howling winds and strange wildlife noises, was a bit bone-chilling. But Thavam – the night watch here ensured we felt safe and had a good night's rest. Though clad in a modern uniform, He reminded us of an old-world lantern-equipped night watchman from one of the medieval towns in Europe. With his gum boots and powerful torchlight, he was doing the rounds around the property, being vigilant for(and keeping out) Gaur, wild dogs, and leopards!

Dine in the Rain

Dining in SinnaDorai Bungalow is an elaborate and extremely gratifying affair - even if you are not a foodie or enjoy lavish meals! The meals served here(especially the Lunch and Dinner) feel more like a feast than something that is offered as part of a full-board package! And the indulgent chef(Ashirvad) and pampering staff(Uma and Murugan) make you feel like royalty! 

The dining room is an extension of the balcony. Sitting in the vintage room that was wonderfully lit by natural light from all the glass windows and picturesquely framed by greenery of Anamalai hills all around, felt like we had gone back in time to a plantation life that was simple and chilled out. And the local recipes that were churned out with a homely touch by the chef only enhanced the experience!

Raj Vibes and Red Wine

One of the key elements of luxury and grandeur from the Raj era (the period in history when the British Empire ruled over the Indian subcontinent) was savoring  ‘the unique pleasure of gracious living in the lap of nature’. Be it in a Safari camp or a Tea plantation Bungalow. So, coming all this way and staying in one such reminder of colonial times, we had to relive the lifestyle that the aristocratic planters enjoyed- especially indulging in evening festivities!

So we had come prepared with our personal stock of fine wines from Europe and South America that we uncorked and cherished while lounging on the bungalow’s beautiful balcony. The sweet orchestra of sounds made by the birds and other wildlife turned out to be the best lounge playlist we could ask for! And the killer hot snacks whipped out by the resident chef elevated the moment to a different level.

From Estate to Table

If you are a lover of the ‘Farm-to-Table’ concept, you would be delighted at what you could get to experience at the Bungalow. What could be better than savoring a fresh cup of chai brewed with tea leaves from their own plantation that wraps around the property? Especially when you could enjoy them along with hot samosas and savories while treating yourself to the magic of a  Monsoon downpour!

Activities & Side Trips

While this property is not meant for activity-seeking adventurers, it does allow you to engage in a few nature-focused experiences. You can go on escorted walks/treks through the sprawling tea estate(if you are willing to brave the leeches!). Anamalais is the unexplored haven of birds that provides you with a peek into one of the best Indian birdlife. The Great Pied Hornbill is the prominent one among the bountiful collection of birds that the place holds. So you could grab a pair of binoculars and set out bird-watching with a bird book from the Sinna Dorai library.

You can also take the Tea Trail tour, in which you would be taken to observe the workings of the bungalow owner’s tea factory and chill on a picnic by a perennial stream in the estate. At the end of the experience, you might even get to pluck a few leaves and make some tea for yourself! 

We kept it simple and did a nice trek from the Bungalow all the way down to the checkpost(which was roughly 4 kilometers), and stuck to the main road without risking into the side paths and attracting any of those eager leeches! It was one of the most scenic walks we have ever done in our lives, and reminded us so much of the unforgettable trek we did through the vineyards of Cinque Terre in Italy!

Other popular side trips from the Bungalow include driving down to attractions like Monkey Falls or Sholayar Dam. If you are too lazy - or want to indulge in the bliss of hill station inertia - then the property has some fun recreational options. The bungalow's beautiful balcony has tables embedded with board games, a sweet touch!) that are perfect places to park yourself with a hot cup of tea and settle scores with your partner!. 

Quick Getaway for

Being located within a 3-hour drive from Coimbatore, this place is an easy weekend getaway from the Textile capital of Tamil Nadu. However, you can also reach here from Kochi and other destinations of Kerala, or combine it with a trip to Pollachi.